Roman Traces near
   
 

Etruscan tombs just below the Porta di Sovana.
drawing:
© Peter Petri
 


In Italian the area around Pitigliano is called the Maremma. It comprises of two areas: the lowlands, that follow the shoreline of the Tiranean Sea is called "Bassa Maremma" (Lower Maremma). It's an area that has been threatened for many centuries up to the 1950's by malaria. Subsequently there are many ruins like the towns of Cosa and Roselle that once deserted where never inhabited again. In some places roman relics are to be found. Other places have always been inhabited up to today and have gone through many transformations in mediaeval and renaissance times when immense building activities occurred. In towns, which were both Etruscan and Roman, you'll not find many antiquities because the old buildings were torn down and the stones reused. In some cases the Roman walls are today imbedded in newer buildings. What you can frequently see are parts of the surrounding walls that were still there in mediaeval times. So it's sometimes hard to tell which part of a wall around a town is from Etruscan, Roman or later times.

Although the main topic of this site is about Romans, we have to talk about the Etruscan culture too. On the one hand, both civilisations have mingled especially in later Etruscan times when the Etruscan towns fell one by one first under Roman influence, and then under Roman rule till the last important Etruscan town fell. But the people living there were still Etruscan, building in both their traditional way as well as accepting roman influences. Not to forget that even long before Roman rule the Romans had adopted quite a lot of Etruscan influences. The city of Rome was ruled for centuries by Etruscan kings. On the other hand, after the Romans had conquered all of Etruria in 280 B.C. the Etruscans kept on using their architecture, transforming or restoring it. So that today you can still see partly Etruscan and Roman influences. But it's important to know that the Etruscan houses and even temples were built with wood, only the foundations were of stone, so you can hardly find ruins of Etruscan buildings with stone walls.

The mostly volcanic mountainous area is called "Alta Maremma" (Upper Maremma). Most of this area is covered by tuff (in italian: tufo), a volcanic material, that was discharged from volcanoes in prehistoric times. Only the western mountains close to the lowlands (like in the area of Saturnia) are not covered with tuff, there original prehistoric stone can be seen on the surface (mostly different kinds of chalk like stone). Tuff can be worked quite easily as long as it has had no contact with air that hardens it. Tuff has been used by people living in the area from early times. Today most of the old buildings are gone, and most of the remains are made from hollowed out tuff. As a well known archaeologist once said: There is nothing that lasts longer than a hole in the ground.

So what is to be seen often, small wonder, is situated outside the cities and are Roman and Etruscan tombs carved into the tuff. They are mostly temple or tumulus shaped. The tombs of the lower social classes (of which there are thousands and thousands, many of them not even uncovered let alone excavated) are very often just rectangular holes in the ground or in a rock flank. Many of them are still used today as sheds, for tools or storage. But there are even tuff-made mediaeval houses in the old city centres with cellars one on top of the other some "normal" medieval ones on top and further down a roman "columbarium", perfectly restored, and today used for private candlelight parties. The columbarium is also typical for both the Roman and Etruscan periods. It is a rectangular room, carved into the tuff with lots of niches in which the urns of the burned dead where placed. They look like pigeon nests, which gave them their name.

What you can also often see are steep Etruscan paths caved into the tuff. They were built to cross the very steep river valleys from one side to the other.

 Roman-Etruscan Places
 

Besides the various tombs there is not much of the roman era left in the area exept in "Bassa Maremma", the lowlands on the Tyranean Sea. However here some hints:

 

Pitigliano: There's almost nothing left of the Roman period in and around Pitigliano as it was not an important place in those days. What you frequently find are Etruscan paths cut into the tuff and flanked by tombs of various kinds.

About 10 metres from the road to Sovana (follow the yellow sign) is some kind of chapel hollowed out of the tuff, dated 397 and which a German scientist claims to be an early Christian chapel even though the date is written in Arabic and not Roman ciphers! So: believe it or not...

In the cellar beneath the house at the very end of Vicolo delle Riforme is a well preserved columbario (actually you can rent the house as an accomodation, otherwise it isn't accessible). At the end of the Etruscan path called "San Guiseppe" there's a well that has probably already been in use in roman times.

Sovana: In Roman times Sovana was capital of the area, now it's just a lovely village. Below ground level Roman walls can be found everywhere. You can see some of them excavated next to the eastern main street on the left and at the western end of the northern street. Built in to many walls you can find Roman remnants like marble relieves and segments of columns. The Romanesque cathedral replaced a Roman and Etruscan temple area. Inside and outside you can see quite a lot of reused roman stones, such as very nice capitals. The oldest church of Sovana is San Mamiliano, situated on the piazza, now in ruins. You can clearly see that it was built on top of a big roman building.

As you stand on the big new bridge over the Fiora-river between Sovana and San Martino sul Fiora, you can see remains of a roman bridge about 100 meters downstream. In the surroundings of Sovana are lots of Roman/Etruscan tombs mostly temple shaped, and lots of Etruscan paths. On the piazza is a small but nice museum providing you with all the information you need for a start.

Sorano: Here, like in Pitigliano, you find nothing of Roman origin than columbari. The most interesting ones are at the Parco di San Rocco which is also the place to get an impressive view of the city.
Castro: It was a town the size of Pitigliano, until almost totally destroyed by the papist army in 1649. Now you can't even tell that there used to be a city even when standing 50 meters from it. It's a bit difficult to find: Taking the road Farnese-Montalto you reach a point where the road to Pitigliano bears right (follow it in the direction of Montalto), turn left using a small road. 1 kilometre further on you reach a pilgrims' church (next to huge Etruscan temple ruins). From that point follow the small road up for about 500metres until you reach a field on the right. Cross the field (it's private, but no one cares) in the direction of the green hill behind: that's the place where Castro once stood. The area is interesting, but you should go to the very end of the former town. There you'll see hundreds of foundations, cellars and even a church with nice frescoes they are just about to excavate. Need I mention that outside the city there are also Roman/Etruscan tombs all over the place?
Vitozza: It used to be a small town that today is uninhabited. Many of it's population used to live in caves. It's situated right next to the village of San Quirico near Sorano. Like many other places it has lots of ancient tombs.
Grotte di Castro: Tombs besides the road Lago di Bolsena - Grotte di Castro
Poggio Buco: On the road Pitigliano- Maniciano turn left just after the Fiora bridge (100 meters downstream the ruins of another old roman bridge): tombs of one of the former major Etruscan towns.
Saturnia: One of the most important town in Roman times. The well preserved Porta Romana with parts of the original Roman road. From the western side of the piazza you can see excavation work. Some 100 metres north of the piazza walls of a Roman building. On the piazza and a few metres away in a park, a collection of Roman gravestones and other smaller monuments. On the piazza is the restaurant "A due cippi", with two original Etruscan cippi in front.
Poggio Murella: There's an interesting water castle about a kilometer past the cemetery. About 100 meters up from the cemetery is a roman tower located on private property. You can see it behind two houses.
Cosa: At the top of the hill, is the roman town of Cosa. Very nice place to go, at the southern part up going temple ruins. South of Cosa the church of San Bagio. now in ruins, containing a Roman mausoleum. Down at the beach, directly south of the hill, is the most interesting place: The former port of Cosa with remarkable remains of the ancient mole. There is also a mediaeval tower where Puccini used to work on his operas for some time. Right here used to stand a huge Roman villa, whose foundations can still be seen. Maybe most interesting are the Spacca della Regina" (definitely go inside - it isn't dangerous) and the "Piccolo Spacco" an Etruscan/Roman water regulating construction. There are also some other remains of Roman villa to be seen not far away.
Bolsena: Actually it is not part of the Maremma, but close by. Here excavations of the Roman city (such as an amphitheatre). In the city, right next to the road to Orvieto are well preserved parts of the Etruscan wall and some Roman tomb monuments brought there from their places. In the back part of the church of Santa Christina there are some very interesting early Christian catacombs.
Thanks to Ronnie Golz / Berlin for correcting

Trips to the Surroundings of Pitigliano
Jewish Culture of Pitigliano
 
 

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